CHOOSING AN ETHICAL TOUR DURING DIA DE MUERTOS - HOW WE MITIGATE THE HARMS OF OVERTOURISM AS A SMALL-GROUP OPERATOR
- coppermoontravels
- 19 hours ago
- 10 min read
First Light in El Panteon - Lake Patzcuaro
Photo by J. Bjarnason 2025
The questions I hear most often from potential Día de Muertos travellers concern cultural appropriation, voyeurism, and whether tourism is trampling a sacred, closely guarded tradition. Are outsiders welcome? Can we take photos? Does our presence cause offense? Is it wrong for a foreigner to organize a tour centered on Indigenous ancestor worship?
I have wrestled with these questions for more than a decade of organizing these experiences, and the answers are complex. When choosing an ethical tour, price should be one of your lesser concerns. We often get what we pay for—and the cheapest tours generally take the most while offering the least to both the guests and local indigenous communities.
Several years ago, two operators began bringing roughly 1,000 guests to Lake Pátzcuaro between them, arriving in large chartered buses. Their inexpensive tours overwhelm the cemeteries, with guests herded in groups and little meaningful guidance or information. The model prioritizes profit over cultural value and local protocol.
I know this firsthand. My first visit to the cemeteries was on one of those buses. We were 80 intruders between two busloads, led by a single guide who remained outside the cemetery waiting to herd us back to the buses. The experience was impersonal and deeply lacking in educational or cultural consideration. It was one of the reasons I yearned to create a tour designed to give back to our hosts while offering guests something genuinely meaningful. Naturally, that comes at a higher price.
Hearts full of Marigolds - Isla de Pacanda
Photo by J. Bjarnason 2025
Over the past ten years, our tours have evolved continually, with each year teaching us something new. My move from Morelia to Patzcuaro in 2019 was profoundly transformative, as I was finally in the same community as my friend and colleague Jaime Hernandez Balderas, who was the first to introduce me to the Lake Patzcuaro region in 2015. Jaime is more than a licensed national guide - his work is his passion and lifestyle. What I had begun in Morelia as small-group visits to less-touristed communities expanded into two small groups from Patzcuaro, working with a private boat operator, allowing us to approach the lake independently rather than through the union docks and their established routines.
We gradually expanded from one night to three, and now to 9–12 nights for those seeking a deeper understanding of how families and communities prepare for Día de Muertos. Two kinds of preparation unfold simultaneously: communities anticipate the infrastructure needed to accommodate visitors, while families prepare to welcome their ancestors as the Vigil de los Angelitos and Noche de Ánimas approach.
These family and community obligations are time-consuming and expensive. We therefore walk a careful line between providing meaningful economic benefit and creating additional demands on our hosts.
For example, we visit the Island of Pacanda several days before the vigils, when we can witness preparations without adding pressure during the most demanding period. Arriving immediately before the celebration might seem magical, but the economic benefit would come at the cost of additional stress for those carrying the greatest responsibilities. And while spending the night in a cemetery with a local family during Noche de Ánimas might sound like the ultimate cultural experience, it would cross a line. Their traditions, their time, and their sacred relationship with their ancestors are not ours to enter simply because we are visitors with money to spend. To clarify, we visit the cemeteries and vigils as observers during the Vigil de los Angelitos and Noche de Animals, but do not interrupt their rituals with our presence, invasive questions or selfies and photos taken without permission.
This is why our culturally immersive journey lasts 9–12 nights. We visit communities before their family obligations reach their peak, giving us time to learn, explore, celebrate, and rest before experiencing the culmination of Día de Muertos—with respect for the people whose traditions make the experience possible.
6th Annual Fiesta de las Catrinas
Photo by J. Alexandre 2024
RESPECTING LOCAL PROTOCOLS
Before our guests arrive, Jaime and I spend several days visiting different communities, meeting with local leaders and artists who host us, and discussing our tour with them. Jaime has nurtured many respectful friendships throughout this region over his 25+ years as a certified national guide. He is proficient in the P’urépecha language and deeply respectful of Indigenous protocols. I am deeply grateful that he has included me in these community meetings, as my former career was also grounded in respecting Indigenous protocols and permissions.
Our dedication to respecting our hosts has transformed our offering from a basic tour into a private, intimate, culturally immersive experience that is unforgettable—not because we invented it, but because our hosts have extended invitations to our guests to join their communities in places where there are no tourists. No words can express how grateful and honoured we are to arrive with you as invited guests. That invitation removes the concern of voyeurism and intrusion. Guests are invited to take photographs, with respect. This inclusion also inspired another development three years ago, after visiting a private vigil allowed me to observe neighbours of the host family with regards to how they approached the household. The following year, our guests followed their lead...
CULTURAL APPROPRIATION
With regards to cultural appropriation, we prohibit our guests from wearing Catrina makeup or costumes during our village and cemetery tours. Though Catrina costumes were rare to see when I first arrived here, the presence of her image painted on the faces of visitors exploded following the release of James Bond Spectre and Pixar's Coco. You might see a few locals dressed as Catrinas during our daytime excursions and children in costume during Noche de Ánimas, but you will never see the elders in costume during their sacred rituals. There is nothing more instructive than observing how the indigenous elders and hosts approach their cultural worldview...
Learning the history behind La Catrina and her induction as the famous icon for Dia de Muertos clarifies that she was never part of the ancient traditions here - a subject for one of our lectures during your tour!
Rather than joining the mass crowds in costume during the vigils, we offer our guests a fun fiesta where you can dress up and have a professional makeup artist doll you up as La Catrina, followed by a succulent 6-course tasting feast inspired by Michoacan and Morelos culinary traditions and farm-to-table ingredients, prepared by celebrated chefs Marcelo Merillo and Samantha Lopez, washed down with local spirits (pardon the pun) and live entertainment. Our Fiesta de las Catrinas was our answer to guests who desperately wanted to wear costumes in the cemeteries. In a private restaurant setting, the atmosphere is fun and festive—and far removed from the sacred rituals taking place during the vigils.
The fiesta is also designed to benefit the local economy, with everyone involved—from makeup artists and chefs to servers, musicians and more—coming from Mexico.
Rosario prepares traditional comida, Santa Fe de La Laguna
Photo by J. Bjarnason 2025
LOCAL GASTRONOMY
There are few chain restaurants in our region, but we would never take you to one. I spend tireless hours cogitating over our itineraries, considering what is in close proximity and scouring reviews for the good, bad and ugly before finalizing our plans. We love our guests to relish elegant dining experiences in iconic, historical settings just as much as we delight in introducing you to traditional cocineras, who will cook regional cuisine from scratch so you can savour the flavour of the land and her seasons, in an authentic household. Few of the traditional kitchens we visit are open for regular business, but are in the homes of artisans, making these truly authentic and selective eating experiences that add some economic benefit to local families we work with throughout the year.
LOCAL ARTISANS
Supporting local artists is the most direct way we can support small village economies in our area. We will enjoy an art workshop in Santa Clara del Cobre, where you will forge your own small piece in the fire from copper. We work with two artisan families there for these special workshops, with pieces pre-prepared so you are able to complete your project within an hour, approximately. We will also visit the galleries around the plaza to enjoy the makings of the local maestros.
During Dia de Muertos, Patzcuaro hosts a substantial artisan market in Plaza Grande, which you will likely frequent more than once during your explorations of our historical centre. We will also visit the Annual Festival of Catrinas in Capula, where your heart may melt over a plethora of Catrinas and other handicrafts, knowing there are far too many of them to pack in your suitcase. If you are an avid art collector, please let us know before you arrive so we can offer you plenty of packing supplies for shipping! As with all travel companies, we offer our guests a gift when you travel with us. Aside from one practical gift, our other offerings are personally selected and ordered from local artisans for you - just another facet of our passion for supporting our local economy and making sure our hosts benefit from tourism here.
First Prize Winner in Capula's Catrina Festival
Photo by J. Bjarnason 2025
GUEST PARTICIPATION
Getting back to that observation from a private vigil in a small community three years ago - our guests now find extra meaning through participation in an ancient tradition.
During our tour, each guest is asked to set aside $600 pesos for our Offrenda projects. Of that, $100 pesos per person is collected and added to our company’s donation for our host families during the vigils, which is handled discreetly. If you would like to donate more, please let us know ahead of time so we can add your contribution to the envelope.
As we peruse the markets, guests will purchase a simple basket to fill with handmade gifts, including a hand-embroidered tortilla cloth, sugar skulls, candles, and Pan de Muerto—a special bread made for the occasion. On the day of Noche de Ánimas, we will add fresh fruit to our baskets before bringing them to our hosts during the private vigils.
This is a customary practice, and one that few tourists participate in, largely because visiting families in their homes is less common in this increasingly crowded region. Our host families will place your offrenda on their altars and, in return, offer you pozole, tamales, and mezcal or tequila.
We will also create a unique offrenda during the Vigil de los Angelitos—an evening you will forever feel, hear, and smell when the memories come flooding back to your senses.
The beautiful offrendas of Dia de Muertos
Photo by J. Bjarnason 2025
ENCOURAGING THE NEXT GENERATION
While Halloween has become an additional facet of Dia de Muertos since it's introduction by foreign visitors several years ago, one of our favourite events during our Noche de Animas experience was offered to us after we requested permission to visit a very tiny community where foreigners had never before visited during this sacred holiday. When we arrived, the children were excited to see us, as though they had never seen outsiders before. Their teacher, Don Iginio, gathered them in the stadium where they proceeded to sing songs in P'urepecha and perform their community dances for us. This has become an annual tradition that remains close to our hearts, as Iginio is proud of his teachings and is dedicated to encouraging the next generation to be proud of their language, music, dances and traditonal clothing, all of which reflect the P'urepecha world view and their connection to the cosmos and the land. Last year, as we were led to their small but special cemetery, the children broke out in song and there were few dry eyes among our guests.
Visiting small villages like this is why it is so important for all of us to be cognizant of how we can influence the children in these communities - making it important for us to leave no trace.
When we visit this community, please bring a few extra pesos, as the children will pass a hat around for tips. This is a standard practice in our region and the money gathered, along with our donation to their village, is set aside for a community meal. This is one of the most communal, tight-knit villages we will visit during our explorations throughout this region.
I know what he wants to be when he grows up!
Video by J. Bjarnason 2025
IN CONCLUSION
When looking for an ethical company for your Día de Muertos experience, two of the strongest indicators are price and group size. From there, you can assess the itinerary and activities, make sure the operator works with a nationally certified guide and professionally certified drivers, and look for a genuine commitment to local experiences, supporting artisans, and keeping tourism dollars within the communities.
For our group, we have a maximum of 16 guests, accompanied by a guide and assistant. During our Noche de Ánimas experience, we combine two groups for a maximum of 32 guests, with a nationally certified guide and three assistants. This allows us to create the independent lake experience we want for our guests—something that would otherwise be unattainable, not only because of the cost, but because boat-union policies require boats to be full due to the demands of overcrowding.
And then comes the magic.
As we drift away from the tourist crowds and into the abyss, twilight begins to fade. You can feel the pulse of an ancient time beckoning you through the veil and into an old-world atmosphere where strangers are rarely invited, and traditions have not yet been reshaped by overtourism and the competition surrounding them.
This is where you feel enveloped by the cosmos of a world we have never known, but somehow always wanted to understand and belong to...
Noche de Animas - Lake Patzcuaro
Photo with permission by J. Bjarnason 2024
EXPLORE OUR 2026
DIA DE MUERTOS
EXPERIENCES
Would you like to join us this year? Copper Moon Travels has a few spots left for our extended, culturally immersive experience and our 1 night tour for 2026. Please contact us ASAP, as accommodations run-out during our busiest season of the year!
We have two options for our extended tour. Our 12 night journey begins in Mexico City on October 22, moving to Patzcuaro on October 25th. We converge with a second group from San Miguel de Allende, which will arrive the same day for a 9 night journey. Between the two groups, our maximum group size is 16, with the exception of Noche de Animas on Nov 1-2, when we board our boat with the second group. The tour ends on November 3, with return transportation to Mexico City and San Miguel de Allende.
If you live in Morelia or Patzcuaro and would like to attend our 7th Annual Fiesta de las Catrinas on October 30, 2026, please email us at coppermoontravels@protonmail.com to reserve your tickets! Our Early Bird Tickets are open until October 16, 2026 for $2400 MXN. If you wait until the 17th to book, the price goes up to $3000 MXN. Cut-off is October 25, 2026, as the chefs must purchase ingredients. The ticket includes an incredible 6 Course tasting menu by Marcelo Merillo (From Cuernevaca) and Samantha Lopez (From Cuernevaca but living in Michoacan). Guests receive a welcome beverage and night-cap and special locally made party favor. Have your face painted by a professional make-up artist (separate) for a chance to win one of 3 locally made door prizes! Enjoy festive live entertainment by 9 piece band Piel Canela of Patzcuaro and more!
We look forward to hosting you!
A CULTURAL ODYSSEY
ANIMECHERI KEJTZÏTAKUA
October 22-November 3, 2026
From Mexico City (Return)
A CULTURAL ODYSSEY
ANIMECHERI KEJTZÏTAKUA
October 25-November 3, 2026
From San Miguel de Allende (Return)
NOCHE DE ANIMAS
ANIMECHERI KEJTZÏTAKUA
November 1-2, 2026
From Patzcuaro (Return)
7th ANNUAL FIESTA
DE LAS CATRINAS
DINNER PARTY
October 30, 2026
Bistro Monarca, Patzcuaro
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