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TRAVEL JOURNAL & OTHER THINGS
BIENVIENIDOS
INTERGENERATIONAL MIGRATION: WHY MONARCH BUTTERFLIES INTRIGUE THE WORLD
Monarch Butterflies at a Private Reserve Photo by J. Bjarnason January 2026 Every November, something spectacular happens in the mountains of central Mexico – a phenomenon that still leaves scientists scratching their heads. Millions of monarch butterflies, some weighing less than a paperclip, arrive in the oyamel forests of Michoacán and the State of Mexico, having flown up to 4,500 kilometers from as far away as southern Canada. What makes their enigmatic journey so captiva
coppermoontravels
Jun 308 min read
ESOTERIC KNOWLEDGE & MAYA DISSENT: HOW BACK-STRAP WEAVING MITIGATES THE HARMS OF COLONIAL RULE
Chak-Chel as shown in the Madrid Codex The back-strap loom is among the oldest technologies of the Americas, and it remains alive in Maya communities today, where traditional weavers have maintained an understanding of Maya cosmology and worldview across three thousand years. Archaeological evidence places the loom's origins in Mesoamerica at approximately 1500–2000 BCE, though fiber impressions pressed into ancient ceramics hint at an even deeper history. The oldest Maya tex
coppermoontravels
Jun 207 min read
EXPLORING TEXTILES OF THE CHIAPAS HIGHLANDS
Juana Lopez's back-strap loom - March 2026 Photo by J.Bjarnason WEAVING THE MAYA COSMOS EXPLORING TEXTILES OF CHIAPAS During our last tour to Chiapas, we were honoured to spend time with Maya textile expert Estaquia Ruiz, who is the curator of the Centro de Textiles del Mundo Maya (Centre of Textiles of the Maya World). The museum itself is a favourite of visitors due to their extensive collection of vintage and new huipiles (traditional Maya blouses), showcasing the evolut
coppermoontravels
Apr 228 min read
A CONTROVERSY OF FEATHERS - The Precious Penacho of the Great Emperor Moctezuma II
Exquisite Moctezuma's Headdress Photo by Joe Klamar / Getty Images This exquisite quetzal-ornamented Mexica headdress was first mentioned on an inventory list from 1596 as a "Moorish hat." Owned by Austrian Archduke Ferdinand II von Tyrol, some believe Hernan Cortes sent it to Europe after having received it as a gift from Mexica Emperor Moctezuma II, though there is no physical evidence that this actually belonged to Moctezuma II, nor do any records document it's original p
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Sep 5, 20244 min read
YOUR NEXT GREAT ADVENTURE: Combating Overtourism in our modern time
Roman Baths - Village of Baiae, Gulf of Naples Italy Photographer Unknown In the northeastern corner of Essex, England is an island that became desirable among Roman authorities in the first century CE, when sea levels were low enough that Mersea Island was accessible by land. The island served decorated Roman officials as a vacation retreat and retirement centre at a time when commoners could barely dream of having a day off. In Italy, the seaside village of Baiae in the G
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Aug 1, 20248 min read
THEY CALL THEMSELVES RARAMURI - The Light-Footed Ones
Raramuri Weavers -Creel, Chihuahua Mexico Photo by J. Bjarnason November 2018 When the Spanish arrived in Barrancas del Cobre, they misinterpreted the name of the local people thus named them, their language and territory Tarahumara. The indigenous people had little way to correct this error, given language barriers, isolation and the fact that they could never have imagined how influential published articles and books would be in the world outside of their home. For hundre
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Jul 4, 20245 min read
TESGUINO, BARTERING, GOD & THE DEVIL - The Home Brewed Currency of the Raramuri
Traditional Home Inside a Cave Near Creel, Chihuahua Mexico Photo by J.Bjarnason November 2018 Imagine being able to create a form of currency from your field and stovetop? The Raramuri of Chihuahua, Mexico continue to function communally, often employing trade and bartering as a means for negotiating payment for labour and supplies. The importance of communal living is significant to the Raramuri and refusing to help a community member who has requested support can have ex
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Jul 4, 20244 min read
A LONG ROAD TO RICHES - The Ambitious Village of Batopilas
Long & winding road to Batopilas, Chihuahua Mexico Photo by J. Bjarnason November 2018 THE AMBITIOUS VILLAGE OF BATOPILAS Some roads are more dangerous than others, but the truly intrepid journey to a colourful Pueblo Magico in the base of Batopilas canyon is as exciting as it is brave. The twisting road spirals down a series of steep and unforgiving switchbacks from the canyon rim to the base, through a remote expanse of raw and magnificent wilderness. Though the prospec
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Jun 16, 20246 min read
A FLOWER FOR THE SEASON - The Sacred Marigold of Mexico
A Rebozo full of Marigolds, Santa Fe de la Laguna, Michoacan Mexico Photo by Bart Bjarnason November 1, 2021 The arrival of the musky, golden Cempasuchil (marigold) flowers on Benigno Serrato in Patzcuaro marks the start of the regions most significant and important observation of the year. For many foreigners who come from all over the world to observe this cultural ritual, Dia de Muertos is an enchanting overnight pilgrimage to select cemeteries around the lake region. Fo
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Jun 15, 20245 min read
T-SHAPED DOORS OF THE SOUTHWEST & MEXICO - Unravelling an Architectural Riddle
T-Shaped Door, Las Ventanas, Chihuahua Mexico Photo Courtesy of INAH The most striking architectural feature stamped into the minds of anyone who visits Pueblo sites of the Southwestern United States or Paquime & the Sierra Madres of northern Mexico, are the striking and unforgettable T-Shaped doors. I am unsure who gave these doorways such a name, as for me, most look much more like a keyhole for an old fashioned lock, than a T. These unusual openings are also suspiciously
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Jun 2, 20244 min read
THE ADOBE RUINS OF PAQUIME - A Labyrinth in the Mogollon Desert
Ancient Mogollon City, Paquime, Chihuahua Mexico Photo by J. Bjarnason December 2018 "It has been said that in Chihuahua there is no green and burgeoning Eden; that it is a kingdom of yellowing plains: eroded, dry and desolate; a land of high rugged mountains shot through narrow passes. The scarce and torrential rain when it falls forms stagnant pools in the desert bowls, which later evaporate or hurl themselves down among the rocky canyons. The sun blisters and cracks, the w
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May 25, 20247 min read
CAVE WEAVERS OF BECAL - An Ecuadorian Tradition in Mexico
Jipijapa hat weaver Alfredo, Becal, Campeche Mexico Photo by J.Bjarnason December 2023 The Lonely Planet was clear about buying a Panama Hat in Merida, back in 1996 when my family began researching hat dealers. One of the first rules was to avoid stores with salespeople bookmarking a Lonely Planet review from years previous, as some would purportedly use an old review to hock lower quality pieces for a high price. If the edition was current, there was a stronger possibility
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May 16, 20246 min read
THE DETERMINED MAYANIST - The Epic Life of Tatiana Proskouriakoff
Russian-American Tatiana Proskouriakoff Born in 1909 in the Siberian city of Tomsk, Tatiana Proskouriakoff departed Russia in 1915 when her father, who was a chemist, was contracted by Czar Nicholas II to oversee the manufacturing of munitions in the United States. The family was living in Ohio when the Czar was forced to abdicate the throne (1917), and thus decided that a permanent relocation was more attractive than returning to the turmoil of the Russian Revolution and on
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Nov 15, 20233 min read
JOSE GUADALUPE POSADA: The Price of Political Satire
Jose Guadalupe Posada Political Satire has always been dangerous, but thankfully the efforts of certain revered celebrities, such as Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, have ensured that the incredible works of satire cartoonist Jose Guadalupe Posada, who died broke and in obscurity, would become legendary in Mexico. Born on February 2, 1852 in Aguascaliente, Posada was schooled by his brother, Cirilo, who ran an elementary school. He learned reading, writing and drawing, and lat
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Sep 29, 20235 min read
TRADE ROUTES OF THE AMERICAS: The Myth of the Ancient Turquoise Road
The ancient trade route that extended from Oasisamerica near Chaco Canyon to the southernmost corners of Mesoamerica's ancient Maya cities began around 700 CE and lasted until after the Europeans arrived. The trade routes passed from the Anasazis through Mogollon territory in what is now Chihuahua, continuing southward to trade hubs along the way, including Chicomoztoc in modern Zacatecas, Tollan-Xicocotitlan in Hidalgo, El Tajin in Veracruz, and south through Zapotec cities
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Jun 15, 20234 min read
TALAVERA POTTERY - The Ceramics that Travelled the World
HISTORY - TALAVERA POTTERY
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Apr 15, 20234 min read
HISTORY - Unesco Site: The Sanctuary of Atotonilco
UNESCO SITE - SANTUARIO DE JESUS DE NAZARENO ATOTONILCO
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Apr 15, 20233 min read
MONARCH BUTTERFLIES: Meet the Methuselah Generation
NATURE - MEET THE METHULSELAH GENERATION
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Mar 15, 20232 min read
CULTURE - Indigenous Pride: Who are the Mazahua?
INDIGENOUS CULTURE - WHO ARE THE MAZAHUA?
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Mar 15, 20231 min read
RECLAIMING A VINEYARD: The Jesuits and they Wine the Left Behind
HISTORY - THE JESUITS AND THE WINE THEY LEFT BEHIND
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Dec 15, 20223 min read
LANDMARKS - Legends of Mexico: The Island of Creepy Dolls
Due to popularity of this intriguing island and apparent haunting of Don Julian, a myth was fabricated that Don Julian was found drowned, in
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Nov 15, 20222 min read
JUAN QUEZADA & THE TRADITION OF MATA ORTIZ POTTERY - Reclaiming Techniques of the Mogollon Culture
Pottery Vessel, Mata Ortiz, Chihuahua Mexico Photo by J.Bjarnason December 2018 The story of Juan Quezada is as fascinating as it is reminiscent of so many legends whose accomplishments were against all odds. Born on May 6, 1940 in Tutuaco, Chihuahua, Juan Quezada's family relocated to a tiny village that had shrunk to only three blocks following the Mexican Revolution. That village was called Mata Ortiz. As a child, Juan was engrossed by creative activities. From sculpt
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Dec 4, 20183 min read
INTO THE LANDS OF THE RARAMURI - Journey to the Copper Canyon
Canyon Views , Copper Canyon, Chihuahua Mexico Photo by J. Bjarnason December 2018 Having always been an avid planner with a precisely booked schedule, it can be difficult for me to adjust to an unexpected bump in the road. As destiny would have it, a horrifying illness left me incoherent and unable to move from my anticipated 8 hour stay in Los Mochis, Sinaloa, for three delirious days. I decided not to fight it, cancelled all of my hotel reservations and threw caution to
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Dec 4, 20185 min read
STRANGER IN A STRANGE LAND - Journey to Acaxochitlan, Hidalgo
Acaxochitlan, Hidalgo Mexico Photo by J.Bjarnason March 1, 2017 As a lone, female traveler, it can be slightly daunting to head off into unknown territory, where cultural and language barriers exist. In the highlands of Hidalgo, tucked away past the city lights of Tulancingo, is a small town named Acaxochitlan. I have come here in search of a Nahua weaver I met in Mexico City last November. As a small town of 35,000 people, perched at 7400 feet between folds of sweeping moun
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Mar 2, 20177 min read
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