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TRAVEL JOURNAL & OTHER THINGS

ESOTERIC KNOWLEDGE & MAYA DISSENT: HOW BACK-STRAP WEAVING MITIGATES THE HARMS OF COLONIAL RULE

Updated: Jun 29


Chak-Chel as shown in the Madrid Codex


The back-strap loom is among the oldest technologies of the Americas, and it remains alive in Maya communities today, where traditional weavers have maintained an understanding of Maya cosmology and worldview across three thousand years. Archaeological evidence places the loom's origins in Mesoamerica at approximately 1500–2000 BCE, though fiber impressions pressed into ancient ceramics hint at an even deeper history. The oldest Maya textile fragments and spindle whorls were discovered at sites like Altar de Sacrificios and Copán, dating from the Preclassic period (2000 BCE–250 CE). These rare organic specimens were woven from cotton and bast fibers from plants like maguey, as wool was unknown in pre-Hispanic times.


Simple yet ingenious, the back-strap loom is a series of sticks and cords whose tension is held by the weaver's own body. One end ties to a tree; the other wraps around the weaver's waist — which is why these looms are sometimes called waist looms.




Natural Plant Fibre Woven with Feather Serpent Design

Photo by J. Bjarnason December 2023


The Classic Maya period (250–900 CE) gives us a rich iconographic record of women at these looms — illustrated on sculpture, ceramics, and in the famous Dresden and Madrid Codices, where the invention of weaving is attributed to the goddess Chak Chel. Though modern depictions have confused her with a youthful Moon Goddess named Ix-Chel, the ancient artifacts — particularly the Madrid Codex — show her as she truly is: an old woman with sagging breasts, serpents in her hair, clawed feet,  a powerful deity who has been creating since before this world existed. Maya reverence for women as sacred creators is written into these loom depictions, for the Maya conceived the loom as the embodiment of the womb itself — rendering every finished garment a living entity rather than a mere object. The cord connecting the loom to the Mother Tree was understood as the umbilical cord, a transmission of knowledge flowing from the ancestors directly into the hands of the living weaver. This same reverence is visible in the graphic ceramics and jade sculptures of women giving birth — an act that was sacred and celebrated, never hidden or made taboo. That women were entrusted with inscribing cosmic knowledge into living garments makes the continuance of their skill far more than a mere art form. It is breath and existence - It is survival.




Woman giving birth - Jade Museum, San Cristobal de las Casas.

Photo by J. Bjarnason December 2023


So how do these surviving motifs and skills mitigate the harms of colonial rule? The answer lies in understanding how patriarchal authority worked to crush the Maya whilst simultaneously dismissing what it saw as mundane domestic labor among women. That same patriarchal blindness likely drove the Spanish erasure of many Maya goddesses — a dismissal compounded by early archaeologists who leaned toward male-centric histories and iconography. A society that viewed women as subservient was bound to project those same assumptions onto every culture it encountered, which explains the myth of the all-encompassing, youthful Ix-Chel and how she came to absorb the identities of dozens of forgotten female deities who were very much present in the Maya worldview.




Friar Diego de Landa, Izamal, Yucatan

Photo by J. Bjarnason May 2007


One of the most catastrophic chapters of Maya history began on the Yucatán Peninsula on July 12, 1562, when Spanish Friar Diego de Landa threw countless irreplaceable Maya codices into the fire — written history, reduced to ash. These books contained the motifs, icons, and spiritual histories of Maya deities across centuries of accumulated knowledge. The burning followed the discovery of a cave near Maní where religious objects and human remains had been found. A fierce instrument of the Spanish Inquisition, Landa was determined to expose those responsible for what he deemed demonic practices and to make an example of them before the entire community. According to his own records, 4,549 Maya people were hanged and tortured; 84 were forced to wear the Sanbenito — a garment of public humiliation that accompanied some of the Inquisition's most brutal punishments, including quartering with hot pokers, burning at the stake, and being hoisted and dropped repeatedly to dislocate the shoulders and joints. The friars unearthed the dead and burned their bones, whipped more than 6,300 people, and destroyed more than 5,000 religious objects — hieroglyphics pressed into deer hide, ceramics, sacred figures, and more. This spectacle of violence rolled across the land like a wave, terrorizing indigenous peoples into submission through fear of what refusal might render. Despite protests from within the Spanish ranks, and Landa's eventual expulsion to Spain to face charges for his war crimes, the atrocities did not subside. In 1570, King Philip II formally removed indigenous people from the jurisdiction of the Inquisition, creating a separate apparatus known as Extirpation.




Mural by Francisco Castro Pacheco at the Governors Palace in Merida

Photo by J. Bjarnason April 2006


Extirpation was yet another assault on the Maya way of life — on their freedom to practice ritual, to honor their own deities and to inhabit their own spiritual world. The King acknowledged the Maya could not be held fully accountable for their crimes due to their lack of knowledge about the Catholic faith, but despite the extirpation being conceived as less punitive than the Inquisition, it backfired badly. With no real parameters to restrain the friars, abuse continued unchecked. Women's huipiles were labelled demonic — condemned not for their cosmological content, which the extirpators could not read, but for the immodesty of a woman's body insufficiently covered for European piety. For the most part it was indigenous men who bore the heaviest physical burden of this era, enslaved and forced into European dress and European labor. The obraje textile workshops — equipped with treadle looms to produce military uniforms and European cloth — began in the 1530s in Puebla and spread rapidly across Mexico and as far as Quito, Ecuador, an industry built on Indigenous slavery that lasted nearly three hundred years.


While the extirpators smashed everything they recognized as idolatry, they were blind to the living language sewn into women's ceremonial clothing. What appeared to untrained eyes as simple geometric decoration was in fact a cosmological archive — sun and moon worship, reverence for Venus, the feathered serpent, the layered architecture of Xibalba, the Maya underworld. The women kept weaving. Their knowledge was preserved in the cloth.



EZLN Territory, Chiapas

Photo by J. Hernandez February 2024


In the 1970s, a new wave of violence struck Maya communities in Guatemala and Chiapas, though by different players in a long story of oppression. Countless thousands of Maya refugees fled the Guatemalan genocide between 1981 and 1983, many settling in Chiapas and Campeche. But Chiapas was not a place of safety — as the Zapatista uprising of 1994 made clear, and as the paramilitary massacre at Acteal in 1997 confirmed, when more than forty worshippers were killed in their church, among the majority pregnant women and young children.


This violence did specific, concrete damage to weaving traditions across the highlands of Chiapas and Guatemala. Wearing a huipil identifies your community and in times of war, that identification could get you killed. Women set their huipiles aside for modern clothing to move through the world unseen, their identity hidden out of necessity rather than choice.


The diaspora of political refugees shattered the intergenerational chain of transmission. A grandmother who fled her village could not sit beside her granddaughter at the loom. Pattern vocabularies that had never been written down, that existed only in hands, eyes, and memory,  were scattered alongside communities. Ethnographers struggled to reach people who had every reason not to be found. And layered over all of this was the pressure of cultural shame — children punished for speaking their languages and wearing traditional clothing, growing up learning that to be visibly indigenous was to be vulnerable. Younger generations shed their cultural dress not as a rejection of who they were, but as a strategy for survival.


This is cultural trauma as an institution: a wound transmitted across generations, not through direct experience but through the anxiety of those who learned, at great cost, that Indigenous identity was dangerous to display.



Sna Jolobil, San Cristobal de las Casas

Photo by J. Bjarnason March 2025


It was due to this traumatic climate that Sna Jolobil, which translates as "House of the Weaver" in Tzotzil, was born, in San Cristóbal de las Casas in the 1970s. Though supported by anthropologists Walter Morris and Robert Laughlin, it was built on the knowledge and courage of Tzotzil and Tzeltal women. This remarkable collective was structured not around profit but around revitalization — around weaving as recovery, as cultural pride, as proof that what had been nearly lost was still here. Provenance mattered. Teaching mattered. Knowing which village a textile came from, whose hands had made it, and what its motifs meant — these were the goals. Dozens of cooperatives have since opened across Maya communities in Chiapas and Guatemala, creating economic foundations that allow women to live independently — including widows and survivors of domestic violence who needed a way out of households broken by generations of war.



Maya weaver Teresa Chamey & Jennifer Bjarnason in San Juan Cotzal, Guatemala

Photo by J, Hernandez April 2025


The revitalization of weaving has ignited an explosion of interest in natural dyes — cochineal, indigo, logwood, the patient alchemy of plants and minerals that Maya elders mastered long before Europe knew their names. Elders who still hold this knowledge are finding eager hearts to pass it into. Anthropologists and textile lovers are learning to read the patterns in traditional huipiles as cosmological texts — which, because so many codices were lost to Landa's fire, is exactly what they are. Maya textiles remain one of the most extraordinary surviving canvases of pre-Columbian cosmological knowledge, carried quietly through centuries of suppression by women who refused to surrender their power or put down their thread.


When you purchase one of these textiles, you are participating in an act of political dissent. You are casting a vote for cultural pride in communities where shame was once enforced as policy. You are placing economic power in the hands of women who built their own way forward out of very little. And in some cases — quite literally — you may be helping to save a life.



San Juan de la Laguna, Lake Atitlan Guatemala

Photo by J. Bjarnason April 2025



 
 
 

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